West Lake Heart Trail Hike

Start at Shaoniangong 少年宫 (Youth Palace), near the north shore of West Lake, close to Broken Bridge. Walk west along Beishan Road for 500 metres, then turn uphill onto the Baoshi Mountain 宝石山 trail. Climb stone steps past Baochu Pagoda 保俶塔 to the Chuyang Terrace 初阳台 viewing platform — the first panoramic viewpoint of the walk, overlooking the entire lake. Continue along the ridge past Hama Peak 蛤蟆峰 (a rocky outcrop with scrambling sections where hands may be needed for balance), then descend toward the Yuewang Temple 岳王庙 area. Cross the road and enter the Qingzhiwu 青芝坞 pedestrian street — the first major food-and-water stop. Qingzhiwu has abundant restaurants and cafes — stock up here before the hill section ahead.

Caution: The Hama Peak section has exposed rock sections — take care on the descent. The first section of Baoshi Mountain involves sustained stone steps — pace yourself. Qingzhiwu is the last reliable resupply point before the Lingyin Temple area.

Photo suggestion: Baochu Pagoda on Baoshi Mountain with West Lake visible behind.

From Qingzhiwu, take the tea-terrace ascent (the same path used by the Qingzhiwu Loop route) up through Lingfengshan 灵峰山 toward the ridge. The gradient is sustained — approximately 150 metres of gain through a mix of stone steps and packed dirt trail. The path starts through the tea fields behind Qingzhiwu and narrows as it enters forest. Follow the ridge path past the approach to North Peak (the ridge junction where the Qingzhiwu Loop turns right toward North Peak — continue straight for the Heart Trail), then descend toward Lingyin Temple 灵隐寺. The descent passes the Feilai Peak scenic area boundary — the trail does not require entry. Pass the Lingyin Temple entrance area (the bus stop and the ticket barrier area). This is a secondary resupply point with shops near the Lingyin bus station.

Caution: The Lingfengshan ascent is sustained and the trail surface is uneven in sections — watch your footing. The descent toward Lingyin Temple shares the path with visitors coming up from the temple side — expect moderate foot traffic. The trail stays outside the Feilai Peak ticketed area — no reservation needed.

Photo suggestion: The tea-terrace ascent from Qingzhiwu toward Lingfengshan.

From the Lingyin Temple area, take the path heading south toward Tianyou Peak 天游峰. This section includes the most technical trail on the route — a mix of dirt path and uneven stone steps with sustained climbing. The trail is partially shaded by mixed forest and less frequented than the main ridge paths. After approximately 20 minutes, the trail crests at Tianyou Peak — a minor summit with filtered views over the Lingyin valley. Continue south past Yuegui Peak 月桂峰, descending on a stone-step path. After approximately 30 minutes from Lingyin, the trail reaches the north entrance of the Wulaofeng Tunnel 五老峰隧道. The tunnel is approximately 1.3 km long, shared with vehicle traffic, with narrow pedestrian walkways on both sides. Walk briskly and do not stop or take photos inside.

Caution: This section has the most technical trail of the route — the Tianyou Peak approach has loose dirt and uneven stone steps. Allow extra time. The Wulaofeng Tunnel has a pedestrian walkway but traffic is continuous — walk single file on the walkway, carry a light or phone torch, and do not stop inside. The tunnel takes approximately 15 minutes to walk through.

Photo suggestion: The forest ridge path approaching Tianyou Peak between Lingyin and Manjuelong.

Exit the tunnel into Manjuelong Village 满觉陇 — a hillside settlement known for its tea houses and osmanthus trees (peak bloom September-October). This is the last major resupply point before the final climb. Manjuelong has small shops and tea houses — stock up on water. From the village, take the trail climbing south toward Jiuyao Mountain 九曜山. The ascent is moderate — approximately 150 metres of gain over 1 km. The path is a mix of stone steps and dirt trail. After approximately 20 minutes, the trail reaches the Jiuyao Pavilion 九曜阁 at the summit. This pavilion offers the best panoramic viewpoint on the entire route: the full West Lake basin visible from above, Leifeng Pagoda directly below to the east, and the heart shape visible in the contour of the hills. This is the recommended photo and rest stop — the midpoint of the elevation profile and the emotional high point of the walk.

Photo suggestion: Jiuyao Pavilion at the summit — the best panoramic viewpoint on the entire route with the full West Lake basin visible below.

Descend from Jiuyao Mountain past Nanping Mountain 南屏山 and the Jingci Temple 净慈寺 area. The descent is on paved paths through mixed forest. At the base, the route reaches the south shore of West Lake near Leifeng Pagoda 雷峰塔. Turn north along the lake shore, following the paved lakeside path. The lake-shore section passes Changqiao Park 长桥公园 (the best spot for a Leifeng Pagoda reflection photo), Liulang Wenying 柳浪闻莺 (Orioles Singing in the Willows park), Qianwang Temple 钱王祠, and the Hubin Road 湖滨路 commercial area. Pass Jixian Pavilion 集贤亭 — the iconic lakeside pavilion silhouetted against the lake. Continue past the West Lake Music Fountain area and cross Broken Bridge 断桥. From the far side of the bridge, Shaoniangong is a 1-minute walk — close the loop at the start point.

Caution: The lake-shore section is the busiest part of the walk, particularly on weekends. This is the final 5 km on flat paved ground — the cumulative distance will be felt in the feet. The sunset views from Changqiao Park and Jixian Pavilion are worth timing for — if your pace has brought you to this section in late afternoon, take a moment to enjoy them. Watch for bicycles on the shared lakeside path.

Photo suggestion: The lake-shore path near Jixian Pavilion — the final section before closing the loop at Shaoniangong.